Saccomani 'Gutturnio' Frizzante Vino Rosso 2021
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Press 4 Mix/Red • August 2023 Direct Press Selection
In the Piacenza hills, red clay and fossilized shells help create wines with an extra structure and mineral backbone. Luckily there are also growers like Claudia and Luca Saccomani who use the traditional refermentation in bottle method, which they feel best captures these elements in the soil and allows them to speak through the wine. They are continuing work their grandfather Giuseppe began in the 1940s, though he started out just growing table grapes. By the early 2000s, they were growing Otrugo, Malvasia di Candia, Croatina, and Barbera completely without chemicals. They've never used any additives in the cellar.
'Gutturnio' is a wine long associated with Piacenza, and by law it must be a mix of Barbera and Croatina. The Saccomani version is a very typical blend of 60% Barbera, 40% Croatina, made in the time-honored tradition of bottling it while it's still fermenting to give it a bit of fizz. Blueberry, raspberry, and cherry cola are topped off with notes of sage and savory minerals to create something quite unique but undoubtedly refreshing. There's just enough chewy complexity to help this match the earthy umami of fried porcini, ragù, or roast guinea hen. Serve it with a slight (or not so-slight) chill. Jonathan Kemp