Pepiere "Clos des Briords" Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Sur Lie 2022
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Marc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière has been a leading force in changing the perception of the Muscadet region one that used to be associated with mass produced, shrill white wines, and despite new terrior specific Crus similar to those of Burgundy, growers like him are still the exception. Ollivier changed the focus of his domaine to farming and minimal intervention in the cellar, crafting age worthy Melon de Bourgogne that sparked a quality-focused revolution in his region. Marc has now retired, passing on his domaine to Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix.
The Clos des Briords bottling comes from vines planted from 1930-1950, fermented and aged in underground vats. This is still one of the finest examples of ethereal, elegant Muscadet, redolent of wet stones and seaspray, with salty lemonade vibes. The is no doubt this comes from older vines, giving it a serious, impressive mineral depth that doesn't overtake the delicate balance. This is not a powerful wine, but nevertheless deeply evocative and hard to forget. This is not an expensive bottle, but it can still age, another example of Loire's ability to overdeliver when the wines are made with the extreme attention of someone like Marc Ollivier.
Kirk Sutherland and Jonathan Kemp