Meinklang "Roter Mulatschak" 2023

Press 4 White • July 2025 Direct Press Selection

Meinklang has, in many ways, come represent the future of natural wine, proving that it can be done artfully on a larger scale. First and foremost, Meinklang is a Demeter-certified biodynamic farm set in the center of Neusiedlersee National Park, one that celebrates biodiversity and works as one giant organism, and just so happens to be one of the worlds largest biodynamic estates. Several other factors make Meinklang quite unique, from their work with animals, to the fact the estate literally crosses borders (they also have land in Hungary), to their focus on utilizing the golden ratio for winemaking in the cellar, the list can go on and on.

Only 70 hectares out of 2,000 hectares are under vine, while the rest are home to herds of cows, fruit trees, ancient grains, and vegetables. It's a complex operation to be sure, but one that is self-sufficient and independent. It is really showing the potential for natural wine — not just as a niche category but as a practice that can truly compete with large, industrial producers. Meinklang's sustainable, Biodynamic wines can now be found in better grocery stores in the US. While that may go against the scarcity model many natural wines use to increase their cool factor, it does a lot to show the market potential for larger scale organic viticulture. As anyone who has tasted their wines can attest, they have not sacrificed quality and engaging winemaking by doing so.

Roter Mulatschak is a blend of Sankt Laurent and Zweigelt, fermented and aged in steel tank with 25ppm of added sulfur. It's "when the cherry meets the pepper" by Meinklang's own description. I also got hints of thyme, tomato leaf, red hots, wet earth, and a snappy cranberry note on the finish. It's a chillable red that is undeniably alive with the energy of the earth. Jonathan Kemp