Mateus Nicolau de Almeida 'Eremitas Antao do Deserto' Douro Branco 2021

Press 2 • August 2024 Direct Press Selection

Mateus Nicolau de Almeida is a fifth generation winemaker in Portugal's Douro region. Hailing from a family with a deep history in Port production, Mateus has branched out to explore the different subzones of the Douro through the lens of dry red and white wines. He and his partner Teresa Ameztoy work everything organically and biodynamically and make their cellar named Shad's Winery, after the fish that used to swim from the Atlantic up the Douro River before the river was dammed. Their label also sports this fish. 

Eremitas is 100% Rabigato, one of the oldest grapes in Europe and is grown mostly in the Douro. It's a reference to the grape bunches resembling a cat's tail, or rabo di gato. Mateus and Teresa's Rabigato is planted on schist near a stream at 350 meters above sea level. The grapes are food trodden and aged in concrete for a year. It's waxy, opulent and complex with layers of spiced apple and salt. It's a bewitching mixture of depth and richness, not ever crossing the line into something powerful or heavy, just remaining poised and inimitable. Pair with shad if you can find it, but trout, crab, pork, or grilled vegetables will be every bit as tasty. Jonathan Kemp