Zafeirakis Assyrtiko 2023

It’s safe to say Christos Zafeirakis takes a more refined angle into his work, and this is a really good thing. Both winery and vineyards are impeccably set up, with a strong focus on organic viticulture featuring local varieties. The winery was built in 2005, in the region of Tyrnavos (the southern foothills of Mount Olympus), and it was here where his family has been involved in grape growing and winemaking for over a century. This cultural bond has definitely set the tone for the winery’s programme, with strong focus on Greek varieties, but also exploring possibilities with grapes like Chardonnay and Syrah — echoes of his training in Europe.  

The area’s soils are a flinty, sandy clay, with good water retention promoting early ripening with high acidity — perfect conditions for varieties that thrive in a cleaner, more focused style like Assyrtiko. 

There is a ton of crisp and perfectly fine, “Two Dimensional” wine made with Assyrtiko out there, but Zafeirakis’ take on the variety carries a little more nuance: meyer lemon custard, and a fresh and verdant suggestion. The wine is light and precise with white peach, spearmint, and a sizzle of crisp acidity cleaning up the finish. This clarity and texture reminded me of the alpine wines from northeastern Italy.  -  Bruno Sant'Anna