Poderi Colla Barbera d'Alba Costa Bruna 2022

Barbera is Piedmont’s most widely planted red grape, but still has a bit of a funny reputation in the region, where it’s beloved as an everyday table wine while still often dismissed as secondary to Nebbiolo. When treated with care, though, Barbera is capable of producing serious red wines that pair beautifully with regional specialties like agnolotti and risotto.

One of our favorite examples comes from Poderi Colla, a winery that might be better known for its Barolas and Barberescos. While the estate was founded in 1994, the Colla family has been making wine in Langhe since the early 18th century (co-founder Frederica is the daughter of former Prunotto winemaker Beppe Colla, one of the first producers in the region to make single-vineyard wines). Their “Costa Bruna” cuvee comes from a parcel of more than 100-year-old vines within the Barberesco cru, and it’s a terrific example of why Barbera makes an everyday appearance at dinner tables and trattorie across Piedmont.

Expect rich notes of blackberry and black plums along with dried violets, clove and cedar. There’s mouthwatering acidity and fine, silky tannins; the fruit is lifted but still deeply concentrated. It’s an elegant and serious Barbera begging to be enjoyed with beef stew on a cold New York night. -Kate Masters