Eric Chevalier Chardonnay Val de Loire 2023

The Chevalier name has long been familiar in the Loire Valley’s Pays Nantais, where Eric’s father was known as a talented and high-quality producer of bulk wine for local cooperatives. But it was Eric — who somewhat reluctantly took over the farming in 2005 after his father retired — who elevated the domaine to a more global status. Today the farming is certified organic and 100% of the estate’s production is bottled in-house, a point of pride for Eric and the family.

We often see Chardonnay conflated with a specific style of buttery, bulk-produced, over-oaked wine that has tragically convinced many drinkers that the grape itself is gross. Hopefully this wine proves that Chardonnay is anything but! Grown less than 25 miles from both the Atlantic Ocean and Lac de Grand-Lieu, an important wetland preserve, it has a zippy, energetic nose with aromas of lemon balm, green apple and dried chamomile. Fermentation and aging takes place in stainless steel or glass-lined tanks, so there’s no buttery texture or hint of oak. Instead, the wine is refreshing and high-acid, with notes of white peach, coriander and straw that come through on the palate along with a distinctly salty finish. 

Serve with seafood, ham and cheese galettes, or duck and lamb’s lettuce salad for the full Nantais experience.-Kate Masters