Montesissa 'Rio Fratta' Emilia Rosso Frizzante 2020

Press 4 Red • September 2025 Direct Press Selection

Elisabetta Montesissa is following in the footsteps—though maybe not foot stomps—of her grandfather. "My grandad pressed with his feet, now we have a machine to do it," she says. "My grandad bottled without doing analyses. Now we do analyses on the residual sugar. These are the only differences. I’ve always lived among vineyards and in agriculture. My grandad and my father have always farmed this way. We have been working for three generations to farm our soils respecting the biological cycles, so we can protect the environment and safeguard the health of consumers. We also farm cereals (particularly traditional grains that we use to produce flour and pasta), corn and others arable lands for animal’s alimentation and to consent a good soil rotation. We also have olive trees that we will use in a few years to produce oil. We try to be independent also with vegetables and fruit by our garden. As for the wine, we have always done it as we do it now, respecting the history and the tradition. A wine that is done with a spontaneous bottle fermentation only with indigenous yeasts and without the use of chemistry in the vineyards and in the cellar."

Her 'Rio Fratta' is absolutely singular, a wine that could not be duplicated anywhere else in the world. It is unashamedly rustic and funky, possibly one of the most authentic glimpses into the traditional wines of the region. Surprisingly, it's 100% Syrah, which at first glance one might assume is a modern arrival. In fact Syrah came to Piacenza over 200 years ago with Napoleon's army. And while many are ripping out Syrah Elisabetta is doubling down on the grape and respecting it's long history here. 

Naturally it is lightly sparkling, as reds here have typically been for ages, and it is dark, animal, and grippy with a strong barnyardy funk from Brettanomyces — not unlike the local mortadella or bresaolo. This will not be for everyone. However it is a political statement that couldn't be further from Riuniti's mass-produced swill. Here is Emilia-Romagna's true heritage: funky farmer fizz.

Elisabetta says, "traditionally it goes well with important meat dishes such as roasts and braised meats, but also with stuffed pasta and vegetables. It can be a perfect accompaniment for hamburgers or a very stuffed pizza." Jonathan Kemp