Meinklang "Weisser Mulatschak" 2023

Press 4 White • November 2024 Direct Press Selection

Meinklang has, in many ways, come represent the future of natural wine, proving that it can be done artfully on a larger scale. First and foremost, Meinklang is a Demeter-certified biodynamic farm set in the center of Neusiedlersee National Park, one that celebrates biodiversity and works as one giant organism, and just so happens to be one of the worlds largest biodynamic estates. Several other factors make Meinklang quite unique, from their work with animals, to the fact the estate literally crosses borders (they also have land in Hungary), to their focus on utilizing the golden ratio for winemaking in the cellar, the list can go on and on.

Only 70 hectares out of 2,000 hectares are under vine, while the rest are home to herds of cows, fruit trees, ancient grains, and vegetables. It's a complex operation to be sure, but one that is self-sufficient and independent. It is really showing the potential for natural wine — not just as a niche category but as a practice that can truly compete with large, industrial producers. Meinklang's sustainable, Biodynamic wines can now be found in better grocery stores in the US. While that may go against the scarcity model many natural wines use to increase their cool factor, it does a lot to show the market potential for larger scale organic viticulture. As anyone who has tasted their wines can attest, they have not sacrificed quality and engaging winemaking by doing so.

"Mulatschak" is a perfect example of what Meinklang does so well: deliver delicious wines that are just as engaging for those new to natural wine as they are to jaded heads. 50% Welschriesling, 25% Weissburgunder, and 25% Traminer that spends 5-7 days on the skins. Ripe, mouth-watering, juicy tangerine notes and ruby red grapefruit. It's lush and soulful but it has subtle texture and lovely balance. Jonathan Kemp