Heinrich "Into the Light" White Blaufränkisch 2022
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Press 4 White • November 2024 Direct Press Selection
Gernot and Heike Heinrich were making a very different style of wine a few decades ago, winning awards and finding success with a more extracted style of wine that was in fashion. In 2006 they made the switch to Biodynamic farming, which was no small undertaking with their 80 hectares, but all the more important because of their size. Like their Burgenland neighbors at Meinklang, they are a model for scaling natural farming without sacrificing their beliefs. The Heinrich plots are still all worked by hand, in fact.
"Into the Light" is a unique "blanc de noirs" approach to the red Blaufränkisch grape that is truly bewitching and exciting. Direct press and aged in a mix of oak and amphora, there is zero sulfur added. Crispy citrus, a touch of gingersnap and salty earth with orange peel notes and red pepper flakes, it opens up with some air and shows some subtle strawberry and watermelon notes. It's a distinctive wine but one with a clear, cooling, linear, ethereal feel. It has a fine-tuned intentionality that will be incredibly versatile on the dinner table. Jonathan Kemp
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