Claus Preisinger "Bonsai" Blaufränkisch 2023

Press 4 Red • November 2024 Direct Press Selection

Claus Preisinger was destined to be a winemaker growing up the son of a winemaker on the shores of Lake Neusiedl in the wine region of Burgenland, Austria. After studying at the Higher Federal Institute for Viticulture and Winegrowing in Klosterneuburg he set out for a few years to gain experience around the globe, after which he came back to his native Austria where he worked next to Hans Nittnaus, in the village of Gols.

During his time with Nittnaus, Claus started making his own wines at his parents’ winery crystalizing his style and vision. Claus eventually took over and expanded his family’s estate focusing primarily on local grape varieties Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt, Gruner Veltliner, and Saint Laurent. His estate has been certified biodynamic since 2006 by Respekt Biodyn.

Claus eschews the use of any cultivated yeast, and only uses small or zero doses of sulfur. He chooses to age many of his wines in amphora instead of wooden barrels to narrow winemaking down to the essentials of the grape and the soil.

"Bonsai" is named for the Blaufränkisch vineyard used for this wine. The vines are very low to the ground and gnarled, reminding Claus of bonsai trees. Grapes see a light maceration and are aged in large barrel with zero sulfur or any other manipulations. It's a very limited release from Claus and sometimes it takes a minute to settle down upon arriving. The 2023, however, is sensational already. Beautiful aromas of wild raspberry, hibiscus and rosewater are matched with some grassy herbal Campari notes, thyme, sassafras, and guava on the palate. It's a stunning display of healthy, fresh fruit and the life-affirming Dionysian magic of natural fermentation. Jeremy Hernandez and Jonathan Kemp