Quinta da Boavista 'Rufia' Tinto Dao 2021

Press 4 Red • April 2024 Direct Press Selection

The Dao, in north-central Portugal, has a more temperate climate compared to the coastal regions, and it has the potential to make some of Portugal's most elegant, finessed wines, earning it comparisons to Burgundy as far back as the 1800s. João Tavares de Pina's wines are based around pre-modern winemaking philosophies, only using "grapes, water to clean his equipment and a touch of sulfur at bottling," according to his importer. This was the way his father made wine, too. His vineyards are beautifully overgrown with grass, wildflowers, chamomile, lavender, clover, and serradella. Oak and eucalyptus surround the vines. João's farming is as minimal as it gets, with organic applications only as needed.

Rufia Tinto is a blend of Tinta Pinheira (aka Rufete), Jaen (aka Mencia), and Touriga Nacional fermented in steel and aged in old oak. Around 20ppm sulfur added at bottling. It can function as easy-drinking glou-glou but there are more earthy layers and vigor than most quaffers. Black cherry, black pepper, and chewy tannins are balanced with energetic, spicy cranberry notes. Crunchy and chipper with far more precision and complexity that you would expect for a humble table wine. This will pair with anything from pork belly to park hangs. Jonathan Kemp