Domaine Guion 'Cuvee des Deux Monts' Bourgueil 2019

Press 4 Red • October 2024 Direct Press Selection

If you prefer your wine with a backstory, Domaine Guion's is particularly romantic. Situated in Loire's Bourgueil appellation alongside other staff-favorite producers like Catherine and Pierre Breton, the Guion family made the prescient decision to transition to organic farming in 1965, becoming one of the first domaines in France to be fully certified. Their 8.5 hectares — now managed by son Stéphane — are still hand-harvested and became Demeter-certified biodynamic in 2021. Even today, the wines age in a large cave that once functioned as a World War II Resistance hideout.

The estate has a reputation for age-worthy reds, but the "Cuvee des Deux Monts" is particularly special. Grown from grapes at the top of two vineyard parcels (and named for the mountain peaks behind the vines), it's only produced in vintages that Stéphane considers exceptional.

You can really taste the painstakingly maintained clay and limestone soil in this complex and almost chewy wine, which hits the palate with grippy tannins and a cranberry-like acidity. I found notes of crushed red pepper, blackberry, loamy soil and dried lavender and sage, but it has a lingering framboise finish that's hard to beat.

This wine has great aging potential and some time in the cellar (or a good, long decant) will help its many facets fully integrate. Our manager, Jonathan, tried the 2009 vintage alongside a 1983 Chateau Latour and thought it more than held its own. That's a ringing endorsement if I've ever heard one, especially for a bottle that sells for something like 20 times less than the Bordeaux. -Kate Masters