That Long Island Garage Magic
Benford Lepley (left) and Erik Longabardi began making ciders in 2014 and wines in 2017. They continue to make everything in Erik's garage in Roslyn, NY. Illustration by Jonathan Kemp
That Long Island Garage Magic
Floral Terranes' latest batch continues to surprise and impress
For those of you who haven't heard of Floral Terranes yet, here's the rundown: Benford Lepley and Erik Longabardi went from making foraged apple ciders as a hobby to producing the most exciting wines in New York — all in a garage in suburban Roslyn. Erik and Benford are driven, borderline obsessive, and fueled by enough extra energy to also have full time jobs in addition to Floral Terranes: Benford works for a rug and design firm, while Erik teaches public school in East Elmhurst, Queens.
Full disclosure, Erik's a good friend of mine, and I know I'm a little biased: so it was exciting late last week to find that none other than the New York Times felt the same way about their unique project.
Their newest release of ciders and wine is the best yet, in my opinion. Looking back on last year's offer, apparently I said that exact thing — but that doesn't mean it's not true! Floral Terranes is tireless in their efforts to improve every vintage, and it is very noticeable. This was a heavy year for apples (many apple trees produce fruit only biennially) and I would encourage everyone to not miss on the ciders this year, they are truly in a class by themselves. They have reached a new level of polish and sublime elegance that I've never encountered in another cider.
As befits the small size of their garage operation, there is not endless amounts, so don't wait on these.
Erik and Benford began foraging apples from underappreciated sites in Nassau County, and started buying grapes from the North Fork in 2017. Neither has formal winemaking training. Their approach is more of the DIY rock 'n' roll ethos: in fact, Erik used to play drums in the same twangy, post-Strokes NYC rock scene I was also playing guitar in years ago. But when he moved to suburban Roslyn, instead of setting up his drums in the garage, he started making mead and cider.
Similar to the three chords and the truth approach to music, Floral Terranes is working with just the essentials of winemaking as it dates back to the beginning of civilization: healthy fruit and hard work. They don't use anything other than a small amount of sulfur when necessary, and make adjustments to the wines in the cramped garage by the seats of their pants.
Just like the best rock music strips away the artifice in favor of raw energy, the Floral Terranes wines and ciders are a (literally and figuratively) refreshing departure from the typical wines of Long Island. They are a signpost that speaks of a very different way forward for the region, and looks to build awareness in the community of the unique natural resources that are typically ignored in the daily grind of suburban life. Erik and Benford are constantly meeting new people and are like reverse Johnny Appleseeds, showing people all the unique apple varieties that are already there. Why let the squirrels eat them when you could turn them into delicious cider that speaks to local history and points a way forward that could be a model for places all over the US?
Erik and Benford want to build a community through preserving nature in the midst of suburban sprawl. They want to turn their frustrations with their surroundings into positive change. It's one thing to 'grown where you're planted' but Erik and Benford are a good reminder that you have to shake some action in the dirt, too. Their relentless drive to improve each vintage has turned a scrappy DIY project into something captivating, poignant — and, most importantly, exciting to drink and to share.
jonathan@vwm.wine
|
|
|
|
|
|
Leave a comment