Channeling Chenin's Energy In Montlouis
Frantz Saumon (left) and Ludovic Chanson have different signature styles but their Chenin Blancs all display the unmistakable imprint of Montlouis-sur-Loire.
• LUDOVIC CHANSON 'LES CABOTINES' $29
• FRANTZ SAUMON 'MINERAL PLUS' $38
• FRANTZ SAUMON 'LE CHAPITRE' $61
Even if you’ve already had your “I looove this!” moment with Loire Valley Chenin Blanc, it is still likely that if you read “Montlouis-sur-Loire” on a wine label, it means very little to you. I’m gonna try to change that by highlighting two growers I think capture the new energy in the region.
Montlouis is right across the river from the more well-known Vouvray, right where the Loire and Cher rivers meet. The soils in both places are quite similar: sandy clay on a base of tuffeau (a very hard limestone found in the Loire Valley, with very little clay topsoil). Some say that a slightly higher percentage of sand and pebbles in the Montlouis soils makes the wines a bit leaner than the wines of Vouvray. In many ways, this trait might lend to the charm of Montlouis's dry or sec wines, giving them a lively lift on the palate and a minerality that is outstanding.
The wines from Saumon and Chanson we have now are impressive and worth exploring for anyone interested in the depths of Chenin's bewitching beauty and power. While Saumon's 'Mineral Plus' is always a fan fave, Chanson's 'Les Cabotines' is still under the radar. For now.
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Ludovic Chanson is detail-oriented and science-minded for most things, but when it comes to Biodynamic farming, he finds freedom in accepting he doesn't have to understand everything on how it works. It’s more about trusting the process that so clearly makes a positive difference. His wines are ripe, fragrant and expressive, with an underlying energy that keeps them inviting.
Frantz Saumon works about five different vineyards with a variety of soils, mostly clay over limestone, clay with silex, or clay with broken down limestone. Frantz’s winemaking style is about purity, always looking for clean wines and thriving for dryness and mineral cut. Less than one thousand cases are produced yearly amongst all cuvees.
I find that the ethos for growers in Montlouis is far more independent-minded than in the more staid Vouvray. Leading voices like Francois Chidaine and Jacky Blot, both champions of expressing unique vineyards with natural methods, have inspired the work of a talented new generation of growers like Franz Saumon and Ludovic Chanson. Franz and Ludovic have very personal approaches to Chenin Blanc, but both are making their mark with careful vineyard work at the center. Both are trying to channel the boisterous energy of Chenin from Montloius rather than trying to control it. It's a grape that is often intimidating because of the range of styles it can pull off — thought that's what makes it endlessly fascinating and rewarding, too. Whether you're intimidated or fascinated by Chenin, the wines from Montlouis via Ludovic and Frantz are a great place to dive in.
Cheers!
Bruno
bruno@vwm.wine
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