Quinta da Boavista / Torre de Tavares "Atinato" Encruzado Dao 2022

Press 4 White • August/September 2026 Direct Press Selection

The Dao, in north-central Portugal, has a more temperate climate compared to the coastal regions, and it has the potential to make some of Portugal's most elegant, finessed wines, earning it comparisons to Burgundy as far back as the 1800s. João Tavares de Pina's wines are based around pre-modern winemaking philosophies, only using "grapes, water to clean his equipment and a touch of sulfur at bottling," according to his importer. This was the way his father made wine, too. His vineyards are beautifully overgrown with grass, wildflowers, chamomile, lavender, clover, and serradella. Oak and eucalyptus surround the vines. João's farming is as minimal as it gets, with organic applications only as needed.

"Atinate" is 100% Encruzado from a one hectare vineyard, south-facing on granite. João leaves the grapes on the skins for two days to add some texture, not to make it an orange wine. After that it's aged in chestnut barrels for eight months. There's a sulfur addition at bottling. The results are a textural, salty white that resembles Chenin Blanc and flat Champagne with its dried apple ring, ginger, and brioche notes. It's a complex wine with gravitas but has the finesse to pair with anything from pre dinner snacks to sushi to roast pork. Jonathan Kemp