Mateus Nicolau de Almeida "Trans Douro Express - Cima Corgo" Tinto 2022

Press 4 Red • August/September 2026 Direct Press Selection

Mateus Nicolau de Almeida is a fifth generation winemaker in Portugal's Douro region. Hailing from a family with a deep history in Port production, Mateus has branched out to explore the different subzones of the Douro through the lens of dry red and white wines. He and his partner Teresa Ameztoy work everything organically and biodynamically and make their cellar named Shad's Winery, after the fish that used to swim from the Atlantic up the Douro River before the river was dammed. Their label also sports this fish. They are always in motion, not only making wine but vinegar, olive oil, and spirits. They raise livestock, speak four languages fluently, and throw epic parties. All this while making very earnest, finessed wines that are natural but not funky or 'natty.' 

The Trans Douro Express line of wines is meant to express the different terroirs of the Douro River Valley, something that has been unexplored because of the dominance of Port houses there. But there is a clear distinction between the bottlings. This one, Cima Corgo, is in the middle of the region, halfway between Porto and the Spanish border. The grapes come from the incredibly steep vines planted on schist in the which has a mix of Continental and Atlantic climates, but is pretty hot and dry. Grapes are destemmed and fermented in stone lagar and concrete, and aged in concrete for eight months. Deep, dark, and brambly, with some blueberry notes and a chewy, satiating finish. Jonathan Kemp

[Note: Luis Seabra makes a similar blend from Cima Corgo called Xisto Illimitado, also featured in this month's Direct Press. Seabra's is from 2021 and made from whole cluster grapes and fermented in neutral oak, and so drinking them side by side could be a fun exercise.]