L'Imparfait Negociant 'A L'Air Libre' 2021 [1L]
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Press 4 White • July 2023 Direct Press Selection
L'Imparfait Negociant is a collaboration between Vicki Samara and Jonas Newman of Hinterland Wine Company in Ontario and David McMillan of Joe Beef fame in Quebec. Vicki and Jonas planted vines in Prince Edward County, Ontario back in 2003 after careers in the pharmaceutical industry and restaurants, respectively.
Working with North American hybrids was not a hard decision for them, at least after being convinced by other winemakers' examples. Practically speaking, Jonas says, "hybrids are a sort of safety net when we are growing grapes in such a cold climate. Even in the worst of winters you are probably going to make wine. Because there are no real benchmarks yet for these varieties you are very free in the cellar."
The 'À L'Air Libre' is 80% Seyval Blanc and 20% Muscat, with 20 days on the skins. It's lower acid but has some fresh, mineral, steely notes and a savory, briny undertone. There are definitely some bruised apple notes not unlike a good Chenin Blanc here, too. It's very refreshing and perfect with seafood and summer fare, and given its deep thirst-quenching properties, it's fortunately in a liter-sized bottle. Jonathan Kemp