Jasz Laci "Breath of the Volcano" Hungarian Red 2023
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Press 4 Red• October/November 2025 Direct Press Selection
The enigmatic Jász Laci is making some of the most uncompromising wines in Somlo. Despite making some of the most exciting expressions of the region's intense volcanic terroir, his wines never get the Somlo designation. This is because Hungary's wine bureaucracy is even more hardheaded and antagonistic to natural wines than France's.
"Breath of the Volcano" is a rare red wine from him and this white-heavy region. 100% Kekfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch) done in steel tank with no temperature control. A month on the skins, no filtration, no sulfur.
This is truly reminiscent of the breath of a volcano with notes of cherry, salt, olive tapenade, lavender florals, paprika, and smoky basalt. That volcanic mineral character is just as present on the palate, at first you're met with what I can only imagine is a cherry sour candy encased in a shell of salt and volcanic mineral. Luckily theres a good amount of fruit and acid to balance out the minerality, with nice mix of herbal complexity. A vivid portrait of what soulful, rustic wines can accomplish.
Jonathan Kemp & Jeremy Hernandez
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