i Vigneri (Salvo Foti) "Aurora" Bianco 2025

Press 4 White • October/November 2026 Direct Press Selection

Salvo Foti is the wise soul of Etna winemaking, possibly the most important figure for his work in sharing his deep knowledge of the ancient traditions of Etna with many projects on Etna, including i Custodi, where he is still the main consultant. In addition to organic farming, he goes hard on the pre-industrial methods of winemaking on Etna, training vines using the Alberello method. This is an ancient technique from southern Italy that is similar to bush training. It requires more work and can't be machine harvested, so it fell out of use. Foti has strong opinions on this "Alberello is the best and oldest training method in the world," he says. "If this was used world-wide, fungal illness would disappear. The cure for any plant's illness is sunshine. Other training systems are for chemicals and machines." Another pre-industrial technique he employs are the stone palmentos found on Etna that are technically illegal. "Sicilians always expect something illegal. So we don't worry," Foti quips. Small amounts of sulfur are used when needed, but there are no other additions, and no temperature control in the cellar.

His own personal project is i Vigneri, and it's a small collective of farmers spread out on Mount Etna that works the vines. Foti makes the wines along with his sons Simone and Andrea, who have begun taking on more of the work.

"Aurora" is 90% Carricante and 10% Minella from a single vineyard on the eastern side of Etna at 2,400 feet of elevation. It was picked in mid October. This is a bright, energetic Etna Bianco with an exciting mix of tension and poise. Deep, round lactic notes are balanced with lemongrass, citrus notes, and a salty mineral structure. It almost feels like a volcanic wine that has successfully channeled the best qualities of dry Riesling and white Burgundy. It's a pretty sensational wine, if you haven't gotten the hint yet. Jonathan Kemp