Famille Brunier 'Le Pigeoulet' Vaucluse Rouge 2022

If you're not familiar with the Brunier name you may be more familiar with their family's Chateauneuf du Pape label, 'Vieux Télégraphe.' There are now six generations of Bruniers that have worked this appellation, starting with Hippolyte Brunier, who helped raise the bar and bring international attention to Chateauneuf du Pape. More recently the Bruniers have been working vineyards just outside Avignon to make more approachable and affordable wines with the same commitment to organic farming and very old -fashioned winemaking.

Le Pigeoulet is a perfect example of a rustic, southern Rhone red, including the whiff of Brettanomyces that many years ago made me pour a similar Rhone wine down the drain out of fear it was spoiled. Now I really enjoy this quality, but there is something reminiscent of salmon skin or metallic brine that can be arresting if you're not used to it. The Bruniers make this wine in large old oak foudrè with no temperature control, which Brettanomyces yeasts would find very welcoming. The wine is really not that funky, however, with a smooth, luxe texture. In less careful hands this could be too rich and dense, but here it's downright quaffable. There are notes of strawberry fruit leather and black plum, overlaid with the classic peppery garrigue found in wines from this area, plus some subtle black olive. About 50% Grenache with Syrah, Carignan, and Cinsault, it's a wine that showcases the rugged terrain near Chateauneuf du Pape with finesse and approachability. Great with anything from family barbecues to lamb chops for two. Jonathan Kemp