Filarole 'Fatto Coi Piedi' Vino Bianco NV
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Press 4 Mix/White • August 2023 Direct Press Selection
Filarole translates to “a couple of rows, a small vineyard” in the local Piacenza dialect, which is fitting as this is a very small-scale, family run operation. The estate was started by wife and husband team Barbara and Paolo Pulliero, who left the city to pursue a rural life and make pure expressive wines. They are self-taught and revitalized the old vines on their property that had been overgrown and neglected for years. These were the traditional grapes of the area: Malvasia Aromatica di Candia and Ortruga for the skin contact white wines, Barbera and Bonarda for the red wines.
Fatto Coi Piedi translates to “made with feet,” referring to the traditional foot-stomping of the grapes they employ to make this wine. It highlights the striking Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, a grape variety found only near Piacenza. It is a thick-skinned, very aromatic grape, which turns out to be perfect for a skin-contact wine. The blend in this cuvee is 35% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, 35% Ortrugo, 25% Trebbiano, and 5% mixed indigenous varieties. The age of vines is 50 years, on average.
The grapes are hand harvested in small crates, selected, then crushed, and fermented using only indigenous yeast. Maceration takes 21 – 30 days with frequent punch-downs. The wine is aged in fiberglass tanks until bottling in the spring. No fining, filtration, or added sulfur.
This is a bright and intense white wine with stunning aromas of white flowers, high-toned citrus, and a bit of spice. I found it to be quite saline, with a good amount of minerality, and tannins. This structure, concentrated aromatics, and length make it a strong contender for pairing with similarly complex dishes like saffron risotto, cured or raw fish, and spicy Asian dishes—particularly curries. Jeremy Hernandez