Domaine de la Chevalerie 'Galichets' Bourgueil 2017
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Direct Press Selection • December 2022
Press 4 Mix/Red
The Caslot family of Domaine de la Chevalerie are noted for their warmth and hospitality in a region that is pretty friendly to begin with. Their vines have been certified Biodynamic since 2012 but were organic for many, many years before that. They still represent an astounding value, with Cabernet Franc that earnestly expresses subtle differences in soil types.
Galichets is a parcel of vines averaging 60 years of age, mostly on deeper soils intermixed with alternating layers of sand, gravel, silex, and clay. They have enough structure and heft to gain complexity with bottle age, but they remain humble and understated. This only adds to the beauty and profundity, in my opinion. Wines with this much nuance and mystery are just not found at this price. It speaks to the Loire’s enduring charms for those in the know and to the hard work of the minority of growers who have turned near-backwater appellations like Bourgueil into some of the most interesting in the world for studious wine lovers.
Upon first opening this wine I was greeted with the familiar aroma of pop-rocks as a sense memory. This speaks to me for most of the red wines I gravitate towards. Something bright, lively, fruit forward, with integrated tannins. This wine has it all plus a bit more complexity. After the initial wave of fruit jumped at me I started to pick up blueberry jam and white pepper on the nose. On the palate I tasted bright purple fruit similar to a ripe plum in summer, followed by a bit of dried rose or lilac, and finishing with a bit of a savory note reminiscent of a nice onion or shallot. Overall this wine would go great with grilled eggplant, Mediterranean fare, a substantial herbaceous salad and lighter red meat preparations.
Jonathan Kemp & Jeremy Hernandez