Cyril Fhal "Femme Soleil' Blanc 2024
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Press 4 White • June/July 2026 Direct Press Selection
Cyril Fhal moved to the Roussillon from the Loire in 2002 after working with Mark Angeli of Ferme de Sansonnière and other early natural winemakers. Today he is known as one of the most respected and exacting of natural farmers, in so small part because of the challenges in his region, where rainfall is less than 10 inches per year on average. Despite this he never irrigates and works the soil gently with a horse or hand tiller. His biodynamic and organic methods breathed new life not just into his vines: all of the other growers in his village of Latour de France have converted to organic farming since Cyril's arrival.
Cyril feels that the appellation rules don't reflect the history or the present of the Cote Catalanes, as they require at least 30% of Syrah or Mourvèdre, grapes that make for heavy wines without much acidity in a region that is only getting hotter. Cyril, working outside the AOC, proves the region can indeed produce wines with finesse and freshness. He was actually part of the AOC years back, and the estate was called 'Clos du Rouge Gorge' until the AOC forced him to remove 'Clos' from the name, for reasons only a bureaucrat could possibly imagine. Today he forgoes the entire AOC system and is the happier for it.
In addition to his estate wines bottles under the Rouge Gorge label, he has a second label under just his name for wines made with purchased fruit from his next door neighbors. True to his workaholic reputation, he actually works the vineyards for all of these contracts. "Femme Soleil" is a blend of Macabeo and Grenache Gris planted on clay with limestone and quartz. Aged in equal parts demi-muid, foudrè, and steel, with zero sulfur added. It is salty and textural with notes of pear and lemon verbena and finishes with a stony, cooling sensation that lingers pleasantly. It's a ripe wine from a warm climate but proof that it need not sacrifice elegance or subtle beauty. Maybe the AOC will take notice, but I doubt Cyril is holding his breath. Jonathan Kemp
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