Claus Preisinger "Kalkstein" Blaufrankisch 2020
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Direct Press Selection | October 2021
- Press 4 Red
Claus Preisinger is making wine near Gols, in the Burgenland, which is right at the center of the natural wine scene in Austria, and right on the Neusiedlersee, the biggest inland lake in Europe, that sits on the Austria-Hungary border. He is only 41 but began working with ambient yeasts and low sulfur back in 2002. He got Biodynamic certification in 2006. After many years of working this way, his wines are not funky at all, but fine, filigreed expressions of the soils around the Neusiedlersee.
His Blaufränkisch Kalkstein comes from limestone soils, and Claus reportedly tastes the actual limestone so that he can also make sure that the wine has the same flavor. Now that's commitment to minerality. While I certainly get the crunchy, stony thread going through the wine, it also has a delicately fruity profile, with blueberry, red plum and juicy apricot notes. It's a mouth-watering, tangy take on Blaufränkisch but doesn't veer into harshly bright territory. It's a great one to chill down and will pair with cheeseburgers, roast chicken, or a Provençal vegetable tian. [Jonathan Kemp, September 2021]