Claus Preisinger 'Kalkstein' Blaufrankisch 2021
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Direct Press Selection | November 2022
- Press 4 Mix + Press 4 Red
Claus Preisinger is making wine near Gols, in the Burgenland, which is right at the center of the natural wine scene in Austria. It’s right on the Neusiedlersee, the biggest inland lake in Europe, that sits on the Austria-Hungary border. He is only 42 but began working with ambient yeasts and low sulfur back in 2002. He got Biodynamic certification in 2006. After many years of working this way, his wines are not funky at all, but fine, filigreed expressions of the soils around the Neusiedlersee.
His Blaufränkisch ‘Kalkstein’ comes from limestone soils (kalk translates to chalk), and Claus reportedly tastes the actual limestone so that he can also make sure that the wine has the same flavor: now that's commitment to minerality. While I certainly get the crunchy, chalky thread going through the wine, it’s a mostly mouth-watering, juicy wine with blueberry, red plum, lavender and sage. We tasted through his whole line up of new releases in September and were once again excited and energized by the ‘Kalkstein’ Blaufränkisch. This wine really captures the aesthetic of all Preisinger's wines: lithe, elegant, dialed-in, and irresistible. Chill it a bit if you like, it will pair with anything: Hong Kong cuisine, pulled pork, Indian food, pizza, cheeseburgers, and, of course, turkey. Jonathan Kemp & Bruno Sant’Anna
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