Claire Naudin BiNaume "La Plante d'a Cote" 2020
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Direct Press Selection | April 2022
Claire Naudin is another familiar name for our customers, as her Burgundies are some of the most near and dear to our hearts. Since taking over her family’s winery in 1994 she has been unrelenting in her drive to hold Burgundy to a higher standard, criticizing rules that ‘standardize’ winemaking and pushing to improve farming practices across the region. Though she works organically, she dislikes organic certification because she feels it misses the forest for the trees, so to speak. Her insistence on the importance of originality and freedom is one of the reasons I like her wines so much. She seems able to cut through the layers of Burgundian BS and deliver some of the most transcendent, soulful Pinot Noirs in the world.
The Bi-Naume project was started when she had devastating loss due to frost in 2016, which wiped out most of her fruit. She was able to source grapes a few hours away in the hinterlands of Saint-Pourçain from her friend Jean-Yves Bizot, and has continued this project since.
What’s nice about these wines is an immediacy that the more pedigreed Burgundies don’t offer up as easily. Pinot Noir with zero-sulfur added, it shows off a more wild side of Claire’s style. Gamey and piquant with earthy, spicy aromas, it’s got raspberry, sour cherry and cranberry tartness with grippy layers and beguling, savory depth. It’s distinctly alive and entrancing, a wine that blows up any stereotypes of natural wine and delivers an exciting, original wine with gastronomic range and finesse. Where Claire’s other wines may require cellaring, this one one is ready to drink now. [Jonathan Kemp, April 2022]