Cellier de la Baraterie 'La Paroxysme' 2020
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Press 4 Mix / Press 4 Red • May 2023 Direct Press Selection
Julien Viana, barely 30 years-old and not from a winemaking background, is bringing the proverbial 'youthful energy' to his wines and the vineyards he works. He took over a small vineyard when he was only 21 from Serge Bouchez, who didn't have any heirs. Now Julien has closer to nine hectares of vines that he works organically, with some in conversion, and with some biodynamic preparations. He is the perfect person to to show off Savoie's inherent ability to make exciting natural wines.
'Paroxysme' is 45% Pinot Noir, 40% Gamay, and 10% Mondeuse, all done in steel tank. It's chewy and feral, with the darker Mondeuse coming through more than you'd think with some bloody iron, and red plum notes. Crunchy and punchy, this is an exuberant but detailed wine that could only come from the Savoie, unafraid to be light, proud of its remunerative mountain briskness. Jonathan Kemp