Barranco Oscuro &

Barranco Oscuro 'V de Valenzuela' Granada White 2020

Regular price$29.00
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Press 4 White • December 2023 Direct Press Selection

Manuel 'Manolo' Valenzuela of Barranco Oscuro was exiled in France during Franco's reign, but he has been living in the unforgiving Sierra Nevada mountains since 1979, working the highest altitude vines in Spain (second highest in Europe) and bottling wines there since the mid-1980s. Allegedly he was the first to receive organic certification in Spain, but it was not up to his standards of natural farming so he no longer bothers. His son Lorenzo is helping to continue the work, and Manolo has been a mentor and influence on many natural winemakers over the years.

V de Valenzuela is named for the Vijiriega grape that makes up this cuvée (it's also known as Diego in the Canary Islands). Pear and apple notes with lemon peel, celeriac, a little oxidative yeasty nuttiness, and a dash of salt. High acid, good length, with a deliciously round and creamy finish. Spring water and stony, mountain stream vibes mean this is refreshing, restorative, and dangerously gulpable. And you may want to slug it down quickly, since with zero sulfur added it gets funkier the longer it's open. Jonathan Kemp and Nico Haunold

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