Ambrositsch "Kosmopolit" Gemischter Satz 2020
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Direct Press Selection | February 2022
- Press 4 Mix
- Press 4 White
Some of the most famous examples of modern-day field blends are the Gemischter Satz (literally mixed set) that come from the vineyards planted inside the city of Vienna. Former graphic designer Jutta Ambrositsch is making some of the best and most adventurous wines in Vienna. The Kosmopolit comes from five different sites, all picked on the same day, and all crushed the same day. All the sites are interplanted with a mix of grapes. There’s definitely Grüner Veltliner — but also four or more other types of Veltliner like Roter, Brauner, and Frühroter Veltliner. A decent amount of Riesling, Zierfandler, Welchsriesling, Sauvignon Blanc are in the mix, but so are at least 10 other rare and still unidentified varieties.
Despite the dizzying collection of grapes, it’s a very focused, crisp white. Fresh and chalky with some underripe nectarine, stony texture, and a subtle smoky spice on the finish. I love the invigorating and refreshing tension in this wine from all the competing voices. It’s crackling and cackling with just the right dosage of citrus I crave in the dead of winter. [Jonathan Kemp, February 2022]