Adega Entre Os Rios "Komokabras" Albarino 2019
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Direct Press Selection | July 2022
[PRESS 4 WHITE]
Albariño has long been my favorite white grape. When I first started working in wine, I often thought of Albariño as simply the Spanish alternative to Sauvignon Blanc, but that perspective shifted after I tasted my first wine from Alberto Nanclares. In the Nanclares wines I found a purity and elegance that matched the precision of some of the best Chablis I'd ever tasted, and from there I was hooked. I was introduced to Adega Entre Os Rios by the wines importer, Álvaro de la Viña, while I was still at Roberta's. While the domaine is situated farther south than Nanclares, the wines have a similar vibe - they're picked at complete ripeness, fermented with native yeast and aged in neutral barrels. I ended up pouring the first vintage Álvaro imported by the glass for almost the entire summer of 2019.
The yellow cap Komokabras is a new wine for their line up. The organically farmed grapes were given a short maceration before a gentle whole cluster pressing, then fermented in steel tanks. After primary fermentation was completed, the juice was moved to neutral barrel where it aged for 9-10 months on its lees, without going through malolactic transformation. The finished wine is insanely good. The nose is zesty and citric, recalling the regions proximity to the ocean. Crisp and clean, with peach, lemon and fennel running the lead on the palate, while the oak aging imparts a nice roundness without feeling too oaky. Drink with oysters, and pretend you're on the Spanish coast.
[Kirk Sutherland July 2022]