Bodegas Cota 45 'Agostado' 2016
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Agostado is a taste of bygone Jerez. Nearly extinct varieties Perruno and Uva Rey are made in an ancient, pre-solera style of Palo Cortado. Late harvest grapes are fermented in big 500-liter bota for 26 months, during which time flor forms and then dissipates naturally. Luxurious and lush, it has notes of fresh sultana fig and finishes with a salty golden sizzle. It's so thrilling to enjoy the vigor and depth of great Sherry without any trace of fatiguing, headache-inducing torpor. This wine is pretty bulletproof after two-plus years of oxidative aging, so it's great to open and sip over the course of a week or more. That's an easy way to justify the price, but its fair to say that even if you drink it in one go $75 gets you one of the most rewarding wines I've come across recently. It will undoubtedly turn heads at any dinner and be a perfect complement to cheeses and satiating fare. Only 1500 bottles made. -Jonathan Kemp
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