Fekete Bela Harslevelu 2018

Press 4 Mix/White • October/November 2025 Direct Press Selection

Sometimes we come across wines that seem to good too be true, and this is one of them: one of the final vintages from Bela Fekéte, aka ‘the grand old man of Somló.’ Bela is a nonagenarian who is respected as one of the finest winemakers in this region of Hungary. Somló is the site of an ancient underwater volcano, vines planted around its dome, rising out of the surrounding plain like some kind of destination for heroes in a Tolkein fantasy. It has been home to viticulture for 2000 years and it is Hungary’s smallest but most serious appellation for dry white wine. The wines from Somló are quite distinctive, due in no small part to the unique volcano they come from. They have been written about since 1093 and loved by generations of European royalty (including Maria Theresa and Queen Victoria) for a reason.

This 100% Harslevelu is a stunning and intense wine. Opulent, salty, and honeyed — but very dry. There is a complex backbone of volcanic minerals matched with chamomile, orange peel, and essential oils. The finish is lifted and tangy, with acid that guarantees this wine will age well for a decade if not longer. This wine is actually just starting to come around, in fact. This was the first vintage where Bela was helped by Gábor Riesz, who has now taken over the winery from the nearly 100 year-old Bela, who still offers his advice. By all accounts it seems that Bela's vineyards and cellar are in safe hands with Gábor. Jonathan Kemp