Forlorn Hope "Nacre" Semillon Yountville Vineyard Napa 2015
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Semillon planted in the 1950s by the Hoxsey family, just north of Yountville in Napa. Vines are worked organically and not irrigated. It's on a mix of alluvial loam, river cobble, and volcanic soils. The grapes are pressed whole cluster into steel tank, and the wine has been aging under cork since 2016 when it was bottled. The name Nacré means mother-of-pearl, as Matthew Rorick says it shines with oysters. Notes of brown butter and beeswax, with a tangy apple quality that reminds me a bit of Savagnin. This feels at first like a luxe, sultry wine but it doesn't get weighed down or too rich — though it does feel a bit indulgent. There's plenty of cut and freshness to the wine, and as I drank it over the course of a few days it was still very much alive, so don't hesitate to decant. Exciting, complex, versatile, and surprising. The kind of bottle even a jaded wine veteran will praise. Jonathan Kemp
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