Terroir Historic Priorat Blanc 2022

Dominik Huber has elevated Priorat into a whole other level of excellence starting in the 1990s with Eben Sadie, who later moved to South Africa and makes some of the most dazzling wines there. As an outsider from Germany, Dominik helped the struggling Catalan region of Priorat reclaim pride in its old terraced vineyards and deep history. Given the ripe fruit and high potential alcohols that are typical there, Dominik quickly went against the trends of high extraction and oak aging and does more infusion and aging in concrete: the wines don't need any extra help getting jacked up. And given the heat stress and growing climate issues, he is laser focused on vineyard work that maximizes water retention and even ripening. Farming is certified biodynamic.

The Historic Blanc is Dominik's effort to make wines as they were being made in the 1970s in Priorat, before modern technology enabled winemakers to produce steroidal bodybuilder wines for Robert Parker's cohort. As you will taste, the wines are plenty imposing without further manipulation. A blend of Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo aged in cement, it is very waxy and opulent with notes of marzipan and chamomile. It's rich but the finish has a nice kick from some spicy ginger notes, and it lingers on the palate for a good while. It's an impressive wine that deftly works with nature to create something powerful with complexity and warm beauty. Jonathan Kemp