Garalis "Short Skin" Limnio Lemnos 2022
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Press 4 Red • June 2025 Direct Press Selection
Lemnos is an island in the Aegean Sea three miles from the Greek mainland — closer to Turkey than to Greece. On this volcanic island are plantings of Limnio, the oldest grape variety mentioned in recorded history, referenced by Homer, Aristophanes, and Aristotle. In 2006 Manolis Garalis started his winery there with the intention of raising the profile of organic agriculture. He has five hectares and grows Limnio and Muscat of Alexandria.
The Short Skin Limnio is a lighter red, but the Limnio grape is quite tannic so it is not a typical chillable quaffer. Many versions of Limnio that I've tasted, some from Garalis, are a bit challenging. Limnio is a pretty ornery grape — disagreeable and downright pissed-off in some cases. Luckily this version is pretty approachable. Notes of bright, candied cherry and blood orange are matched with dark, savory undertones, a Campari-like bitterness, and lots of grippy texture. It is a pleasurable, friendlier version of this historic grape that nevertheless retains it's idiosyncratic identity. Jonathan Kemp
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