Denavolo "Ciliegia" Vino Bianco 2022

Press 4 White • September 2025 Direct Press Selection

Giulio Armani, the winemaker at La Stoppa, started his own project, name Denavolo, in 2005. He had begun learning winemaking from Rafael Pantaleoni at La Stoppa in 1980 when Giulio was still basically a child. At La Stoppa he learned the art of natural winemaking and viticulture, making skin contact wines as far back as 2001 when it was far from trendy. Denavolo is only about three hectares of vines planted to indigenous varieties, including some that are unknown because they were only meant for local peasant wine. Not surprisingly, the Denavolo wines have many of the same qualities that make La Stoppa so close to peoples' hearts. 

Ciliegia is 100% Ortrugo with 3 months of skin contact in stainless steel tank, zero sulfur added. The cherry on the label is only there because a Canadian importer wanted a cherry on it. An apple would be more appropriate because it has an energetic, cidery feel, with some malic edge and a subtle touch of Basque rancio funk. It is not as wild as some of the La Stoppa wines, and is mostly a very refreshing, balanced wine, the shallow end of the orange wine pool. It is very delicious and very soulful, the product of Giulio's lifelong stewardship of the traditions and terroir of the Piacenza hills. Jonathan Kemp