Bodrog Bormuhely Dry Tokaj 2020
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Press 4 Mix/White • October 2023 Direct Press Selection
Tokaji, in northeastern Hungary, is the oldest wine appellation in Europe, established in 1732 and pre-dating Bordeaux by 100 years. As such, it is a place of immense pride and unique terroir for making world-class wine. The local passion for excellence in winemaking was interrupted by the Communist era's insistence on bulk production and utility but 30 years later the region is reclaiming its centuries-old reputation. The Communist era did allow for lots of small, family-owned plots in historic areas, however, and that is what János Hajduz and Krisztián Farka are working with for Bodrog Bormuhely, or Bodrog Workshop, named for the Bodrog River that is the lifeblood of Tokaj's vineyards.
Though famous for it's sweet, botrytized wines, this is a more rare example of dry Tokaj that shows off the local volcanic soils. A blend of 70% Furmint and 30% Harslevelu, the main grapes of the region, made all in stainless steel with minimal sulfur. Graham cracker, lemon, and juicy pear, this is a salty, lower acid wine that is nevertheless fresh and easy to love. Jonathan Kemp