Maria and Sepp Muster 'Sauvignon Vom Opok' 2020
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One of Austria's greatest natural wine houses, the Muster estate can trace its Styrian roots as far back to 1772. Sepp Muster took the reigns of this legendary piece of land in 2000 and has since made a huge splash internationally with his beautifully low-intervention winemaking. The 10 hectares of mostly old-vine Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Zweigelt are biodynamically farmed, certified since 2003. These are the pinnacle of Austrian natural wine.
Sauvignon "Vom Opok" comes from vines planted on the famous Styrian Opok soil (rocky clay and silt over chalky marl subsoil). Grapes are harvested by hand, destemmed and gently pressed in large, old 2400 liter oval barrels right away, where the juice rests undisturbed for 20 months. The finished wine, as with all the Muster wines, it bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no added sulfur.
This is truly singular Sauvignon Blanc, and as far from New Zealand of Sancerre stylistically as you can get. The gunpowdery reductive, mouth-watering nose needs a moment in the glass in order to let the beautiful quince and elderflower notes unfurl. Medium-bodied and intensely mineral, crisp orchard fruit and juicy Meyer lemon and matched perfectly by bright acidity and creamy texture. You can't get much better than this. Kirk Sutherland