Lenkey Pinceszet "Puritan" 2022

Press 4 White • October/November 2025 Direct Press Selection

Geza Lenkey, Jr. had no idea what his father was thinking when he bought a 10 acre vineyard in 1999. The family lived in Budapest and the Tokaj region was a few hours' drive away. But after his father passed away in 2001, Geza Jr. began working in earnest at becoming a vigneron. Since 2005 there have been no chemical sprays used, and the estate was certified organic in 2015. In the years since his father purchased the vineyard, Tokaj has undergone a renewal and it's ancient reputation for world class wines has once again been capturing the attention of wine lovers. Lenkey is arguably making some of the finest, most ageworthy dry wines in Tokaj, in addition to their output of sweet wines that are among the best in the world.

"Puritan" is a blend of native varieties that are aromatic, ripen early, and are mostly not included in the offical Tokaj appellation: Muscat Otthonel, Zengő, Zenit, Cserszegi Fűszeres, and Zalagyöngye. It's made with zero added sulfur and spends over two years in tank on the lees. The result is a bracing, layered expression of Tokaj's volcanic soils. Floral, underripe peach, spices, and a toothsome mix of stony minerals and umami. Filigreed, elegant, and with the cut to stand up to complex dishes. Like all of his wines, this is a showstopper; not just a wine that fulfills the potential of Tokaj has been capable of, but for Geza Jr it represents the "the treasure we inherited from Dad." Jonathan Kemp