Fongoli "Biancofongoli" Trebbiano Spoletino 2024

Press 4 Mix/Red • July 2025 Direct Press Selection

Umbria's reputation in the wine world has been mostly dependent on the wines of Paolo Bea and his son Giampeiro, who led a movement back to working with historic varieties like Sagrantino and embracing the rustic, austere traditions of the region that were abandoned in the 1980s and 1990s. Until recently, few others could be considered to be working like this. But since 2010 Angelo Fongoli has converted his family's estate in Montefalco to a contiguous 35 hectare biodynamic farm with vineyards, olive trees, truffles, horses, and forest. They are extremely earnest and detailed about their vineyard work, limiting the spraying of copper and sulfur; using trawling instead of rotary tools to more gently work the soil and preserve mycorrhizal networks; spraying cow horn manure twice a year; and cultivating wild grasses and other plants to increase the biodiversity of the farm.

In the cellar, they work in an oxidative manner and without sulfur in most cases. The Bioncofongoli is a mix of local varieties Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto. It spends two days on the skins but isn't really orange. It has some subtle texture from the skins and a salty apple quality. Zero sulfur added but it's very clean, very refreshing, and very quaffable. Get one chilled down for the next 100 degree day. Jonathan Kemp