COZs "Pop" Vital Branco 2023

The COZ project is a partnership of Tiago Teles of Gilda and RAIZ and Antonio Marques da Cruz of Serradinha (featured in November's Direct Press, he puts ladybugs on the corks). They joined forces in order to work the land of one of their winemaking heroes, Jose Mendonça of Quinta dos Cozinheiros, who passed away tragically. The name COZ is taken from his winery. After a few vintages they acquired some more parcels in the Montejunto mountain range, a protected natural reserve less than 10 miles from the ocean that is dotted sporadically with vineyards. 

What I like so much about their project is that they are making natural wines for all intents and purposes, but stylistically they are not afraid to have plenty of texture and tannin. The wines transcend any easy category, and truly fulfill their intent of making wines expressive of their place. They are truly distinct, speak with a real voice, and yet are so satiating and comforting. 

This wine is 100% VItal from the Montejunto mountains at 250-300 meters above sea level, sourced from 5 vineyards planted on clay and limestone. 24 hours on the skins, pressed into concrete. Refreshing with salty, savory depth. Notes of sun tea, dried orange peel, there is a dialed-in balance of acidity and texture that is exciting and delicious. Jonathan Kemp