Chapuis and Chapuis Mercurey 1er Cru 2022

Press 2 • August 2024 Direct Press Selection

Chapuis and Chapuis is a project of the Chapuis brothers, Romain and Jean-Guillhaume. They're from Burgundy but Romain, who is the winemaker and viticulturist, worked abroad for years in Australia, New Zealand, and Lebanon before returning to Burgundy to work for Philippe Pacalet. Apparently he was hired by Pacalet mostly because of his size, since Pacalet's cellar work and punchdown regimen entails a lot of physical strength. Turns out Romain has both brains and brawn, however, and his making Burgundies that are both exciting and relatively affordable, a very rare combination these days. He and his brother began doing négoce but soon started acquiring parcels that they work themselves.

The Mercurey comes from a parcel that they decided to stop working with after the 2022 vintage, so this is the last time this cuvée will be available. Its fermented whole cluster with a short maceration and spends 11 months in oak, with 30% new barrel. Sulfur additions are tiny. Some of their wines can be natty but the Mercurey is a beautiful mixture of lively rawness that doesn't overwhelm the elegant, richness. There is raspberry, bing cherry, earthy umami, and a touch of vanilla from the oak — but it similarly doesn't overwhelm the fruit. The extraction is lighter but it is still satiating and layered. It's a terrific example of the newer wave of Burgundies emerging recently. Jonathan Kemp