La Staffa Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2023

Riccardo Baldi’s vineyards are only 22 miles from the Adriatic Sea but bring another dimension to the concept of “coastal wine.” Millions of years ago, a geological shift flipped the sheet of rock underneath his vineyard, surfacing an ancient ocean floor. As a result, his organically farmed soils are older than much of the surrounding land and especially rich in calcium carbonate — aka limestone formed from marine fossils.

That minerality is obvious in the salty finish of his Verdicchio dei Castelli Classico, which also benefits from the unique position of the estate’s vineyards. La Staffa, located in the small village of Staffolo, is higher in elevation than the average Castelli di Jesi vineyard at 400 meters above sea level. The town is sometimes referred to as the “balcony” of the Esino River thanks to its panoramic location on hillsides above the river valley. That elevation widens the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and brings the vines even closer to cooling breezes from the Adriatic — allowing the grapes to retain their naturally high acidity.

As you might guess, marine soils plus high elevation result in a wine that’s pretty dang elegant. Briny lemon rind and grapefruit join more herbaceous notes of raw fennel and pink peppercorn, with a finish reminiscent of parmesan rind and shortbread cracker. With a mouthfilling and almost waxy texture, it’s the perfect companion to fried seafood or a cheese-rich pasta. Kate Masters