Holger Koch: Undersung Brilliance In Baden

Holger Koch: Undersung Brilliance In Baden


      If the idea of Pinot Noir from Baden seems familiar, it's probably because we have spared few words when announcing the arrival of each vintage of Wasenhaus, who on their third release is fast becoming one of our favorite producers. So we're long overdue on singing the praises of Holger Koch, who began making wines in the same region, with the same approach, almost a generation ahead of Wasenhaus, in 1999.

      Why is Holger in the shadow of the younger guard? I really don't know. I've adored his wines for six or seven years, and have been only moderately successful in convincing people that his wines were as exceptional as I believe them to be. Selling German Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc that aspires to Burgundy is not easy. But as Wasenhaus has proved, there is a growing awareness of the great potential in Baden, and a growing demand. Holger, for his part, has stuck by his guns over the years, and still believes in Baden and in his wines, so I think it's nigh time to shout out Holger's wines again.

      We just have two of his wines to offer today, a single vineyard Pinot Noir and a deliciously affordable Weissburgunder, but they are a perfect sneak preview of what he's up to. When his full lineup becomes available again, you'll be the first to hear about it. For now, there is enough of the Weissburgunder for everyone, but we have to ask for just 2 bottles each of the Pinot Noir per customer.

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