La Lunotte (Christophe Foucher) Les Rossignoux Blanc 2019
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Press 4 White • November 2023 Direct Press Selection
Christophe Foucher of La Lunotte is about as at one with his land as you can get. Working his 5.5 hectares in Couffy of the Loire Valley solo, every stalk and stem is personal to him. His journey began in 2000: originally he taught classes in engineering, but after working alongside his father-in-law at his wife’s family vineyard, a passion for winemaking sparked within him. Their vineyard was organic, so it was only natural for Foucher to continue observing the organic standard. By 2001, his vineyard was also converted to biodynamics. Foucher eats, sleeps, and breathes his land as well as his commitment to natural winemaking. So much so that he opted for the Vin de France declassification rather than joining Touraine AOC, which allows far too many chemicals for his liking.
He’s a man of character and so is his art. Employing naturally occurring fermentation, use of ambient yeasts, carbonic maceration, and bottling his wines by hand unfined and unfiltered. To top it off (or not to top it off!) he completely forgoes using sulfites or other additives. Foucher is also a fan of a good long elevage, with his wines being housed in barrel from anywhere from a year up to five years before they see the light of day and the inside of our anticipatory glassware. He grows Menu Pineau, Cabernet Franc, Côt, Gamay, and as our selection for this month includes–Sauvignon Blanc. As you can imagine, his dedication to the natural process gives his wines a mighty and distinct character unlike anything you’ve ever tasted.
This ‘Rossignoux’ Sauvignon Blanc was aged for a year in barrel and then allowed to interact with a layer of flor—quite the unusual path for the varietal. Likewise, what you’ll find in the bottle is anything but the expected. The intensity on the aromas is dialed up, first expressing marmalade on toast, followed by notes of butterscotch and caramel. It’s nice and dry on the palate, recalling a sherry-like nuttiness. He has achieved nothing short of a layered and unique take on this ubiquitous noble grape. Interesting and talkative all the way through, it’d be no surprise if you want to have a one-on-one with this bottle, but I find myself also wanting to pair it with peanut-based Thai food.
- Demi Elder