Klinec "Quela" Slovenia 2017

Since 1918, the Klinec family has been cultivating grapes in Goriška Brda, a region that bumps against the Italian border in the easternmost section of Slovenia. It’s a unique geographical area bound by the Alps in the north and the Adriatic Sea in the south. Fresh mountain air allows the grapes to retain their acidity, while the warmer ocean influence aids full ripening.

We had the pleasure of meeting winemaker Aleks Klinec when he visited our store in November. From the moment we shook hands, it was clear that he’s a deeply passionate man who prioritizes land stewardship above almost all else. The family raises olives, sheep and pigs alongside 6 hectares of vines, and has been working biodynamically for the last 20 years. They make their own compost and age their wines in a unique combination of large barrels — acacia and mulberry for their whites and cherry and oak for their reds.

The Quela is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot that sees three weeks of skin maceration in concrete before a long élevage in wood. It’s a big-bodied red with plummy fruit aromas structured around ripe, silky tannins. The wine opens with notes of cocoa, roasted red pepper and moody black fruits, and develops more savory notes of leather and tar as it evolves in the glass. With high acid and high — but very balanced — alcohol, this is a serious wine that can hold its own against steak and game meats. 

Kate Masters