Marco de Bartoli Catarratto Terre Siciliane "Lucido" 2023

The late Marco de Bartoli was a pivotal figure in the history of the Marsala region, helping to pave a path away from bulk fortified wine production and into dry wines made with local grapes and organic farming. Winemaking was actually his second career, however: he was a famous race car driver in the 1970s. Between racing and wine his reputation in southwest Sicily was esteemed enough that when he allegedly had an affair with the wife of the mayor of Palermo, he was exiled to the nearby island of Pantellaria instead of, I don’t know, getting himself shot? But luckily he lived out his days surrounded by collectible cars and wine, including the stunning Passito and other dry wines the family still produces on Pantellaria.

Marco’s children Renato, Sebastiano and Giusippina have continued to make some of the best wines in western Sicily. The “Lucido” is named for a local subtype of Catarratto and is a delicious, spiced affair with layers of dried apple ring, golden currant, and ginger. It finishes with tangy acid and, unsurprisingly, a sensation of Sicilian sea salt. Jonathan Kemp