Gut Oggau "Timotheus" Weiss 2022

Press 2 • November 2024 Direct Press Selection

Stephanie and Eduard Tscheppe's Gut Oggau project ranks up there with Frank Cornelissen as some of the most recognizable names of the natural wine scene. In 2007 they restored a winery from the 1600s and the surrounding vineyards that had been abandoned for 20 years — this neglect was helpful for their biodynamic approach, since there were no chemicals or pesticides left in the soil, which is typically the challenge for converting existing vines to organic.

Their labels feature hand drawn faces of an imaginary family and the website includes personality descriptions of each person that is meant to capture qualities of each wine. Timotheus, whose face graces this wine, has the following attributes: "He impresses people with his strong, powerful, and balanced character. He stands with both feet firmly planted on the ground, but is nonetheless open-minded and always looking for new challenges. He is regarded as self-confident, a man of substance and even refined, he is someone, who due to his winning ways, quickly makes friends anywhere." 

Marketing the wines this way is bound to raise a few eyebrows, and the additional hype around them has only fueled skepticism. However, there is quite a lot of substance behind their style. I tasted through their current release and was extremely impressed. Their farming and land stewardship is of a very high level, so whatever influence and reach they have is not just well-deserved but crucial for inspiring others. 

Timotheus is made of Grüner Veltliner and Weissburgunder and 1/3 of the grapes see three weeks on the skins. It's an orange wine but a very subtle one with layers of complexity and filigreed detail. Apple ring and pear skin notes with a chewy, dense depth. The balance of fruit and texture is more weighted towards the grippier side of things right now, but this is a wine that will age beautifully for 5-10 years. If drinking now, make sure to decant. Jonathan Kemp