Some grape varieties are blunt instruments. They are loud and proud, but not always capable of subtlety: Cabernet Sauvignon is one such grape. Easy to recognize regardless of where it was planted, and not too many styles to confuse the everyday drinker. On the other end of the spectrum are the grapes that react to their conditions so acutely that they inhabit an overwhelming range of styles. Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Chenin Blanc all fit this mold. Chenin, in particular, can be wildly different from one village to another in the Loire Valley. This is what makes it so endlessly engaging, but also so intimidating. To narrow the scope, we want to showcase four dry Chenin Blancs from Saumur and Anjou. These are not only instructive in the fine points of Loire terroir, but they are simply some of the most thrilling wines we've been drinking recently.